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MALOLOTJA HIKE

JANUARY 2018

Malolotja Nature Reserve includes over 18 000 hectares of mountain wilderness in the north-west of Swaziland. The reserve provides protected wetland, woodland, highveld grassland and mistbelt forest habitats for a wide variety of plant and animal life.

Friday 12th January 2018
Being resident in Nelspruit we were able to leave home by 13H30. We travelled through the Oshoek Border post, although it’s normal for the border to be busy on a Friday afternoon everything went well and it was a pleasant experience at both border posts. Don’t forget to ensure you have R50 or 50 Elangeni cash to pay your Swazi road tax. They do accept cards but it takes longer to process.
Once in Swaziland we headed for the Malolotja reserve main camp (26° 8'25.67"S. 31° 8'8.87"E). We never made prior arrangements as we were not using the local accommodation and intended to hit the trail as soon as we arrived.
Once at the main camp we were greeted in the typical friendly Swazi fashion. We booked and paid for our two nights in the reserve. Make sure you have your own printed or electronic map of the reserve and trails as they no longer supply maps at reception.
We left the main camp by 16H00 and headed past the campsite via Mortimas Dam in a Northwesterly direction towards Logwala lookout. This is mostly well-defined trail and road network, the real hike starts after the lookout.
Our target before dark was camp #6 next to the river. We made it with enough time to pitch our tents. We enjoyed an awesome starlight night and banked a good night’s rest.

Saturday 13th January 2018
Early start, coffee, breakfast and we hit the trail. We had two options to get to camp #7 a short way and a long way. The weekend had turned out to be blistering hot with “heatwave warnings” so we opted for the short route.

 

We climbed out the valley to an awesome site. In the far distance was Silotwane Peak, the entire valley below was covered in mist and in the foreground not far from us were no less than five different antelope species.
The Eland, Hartebeest, Black Wildebeest, Zebra and Blesbok were grazing in the early morning light. The soaring of a Steppe Buzzard and Black Saw-wing (Swallow) and most importantly a glimpse of the endangered Blue Swallow. All were aware of our presence but not spooked, we simply sucked in the beauty and took time to remember how privileged we were!
 

Once we set off again we found the landmark “zig zag” or cut back path, which would lead us rapidly down into the riverine forest. While descending the environment changed from Montane Grassland to rather dense Riverine forest. With this change, the sight and sounds also changed. The summer screamers or Cicadas (cicadas are a superfamily, the Cicadoidea, of insects in the order Hemiptera) were ear defining and the birdcalls increased. The elusive Eatern Nicator clearly calling but impossible to see.

 
Once down along the river it was an easy trail to camp #7. For the first time ever on a trail, we had reached our destination before lunch. 11H00 to be exact! We pitched tents and had a swim in the ice-cold river, feeling fresh again after lunch and a swim we decided Silotwane Peak was do-able. Without our backpacks, just water and sun protection we decided at 12H00 to summit Silotwane!
We set out bushwhacking the shortest route out of the riverine forest and back onto the grasslands. There is no problem identifying the correct peak, it is simply the highest one you can see. We knew that the peak was about 4km to the top and allowed a maximum of three hours before we had to turn and head for camp before nightfall.
We found a stream half way up, and I must add that water was never an issue on this trail; however, careful planning in the less plentiful months would be essential. We filled our water bottles and pushed up the last section.
We peaked shortly after 15H00, (1666m, 26° 5'13.34"S 31° 4'28.84"E) an absolute awesome view, looking to the West was South Africa and the rest was the beautiful Malolotja. Time being tight we started our decent. Tough on the knees and legs we travelled the same path and were back in camp with plenty light to spare. We soaked our feet in the cold river water, had dinner and hit the sack!

 

Sunday 14th January 2018
Again an early start was easy; we had breakfast, coffee and packed up. We planned to head back along the river on the marked trail to camp #8 and then ascend out the valley back to the Logwala lookout. All was good until the path disappeared. We bumbled around in the bush for over a half an hour looking for the path. We noticed definite Elephant dung, old, but all the same it was unnerving to know that these giants could be about in the very confined bush.
 

We eventually found a stone cairn across the river and picked up the trail again. We found Camp #8, which confirmed our position. Shortly thereafter, the trail dried up again. Know where the track was heading we decided to tackle the thick riverine forest and take the shortest route up. This proved to be a grueling exercise; we persisted, all be at a snail’s pace and eventually intersected the correct path.


Although we were back on the track the gradient was no less as we climbed out the valley. The view of the Malolotja Waterfall was a good reason to stop, catch your breath and take a pic.
As we approached the lookout, we were hoping to hitch a lift back to main camp, our luck not a vehicle in site. Miday push of 4km back to main camp.
We reported back, bought an ice cold Sibebe. We ordered a late lunch and drove doen to the camp site for a nice long shower, clean cloths and ready to for lunch.
After lunch we headed back to Nelspruit, again both border post were a pleasant experience. We were back in Nelspruit buy 18H00.

All in all Malolotja Swaziland was an awesome hiking experience. Great place, great people and great value for money. I would encourage all who can to experience the grandeur and beauty of the Malolotja Reserve.
We enjoy the path less travelled; Malolotja is up there with the Drakensberg and Wolkberg.
Should anyone need our tracks or any information pertaining to the Malolotja reserve please don’t hesitate to contact me.

MALOLOTJA HIKE

DECEMBER 2018

Friday 7th of December 2018

We travelled through the Oshoek Border post, and, although it is normal for the border to be busy on a Friday afternoon, everything went well and it was a pleasant experience at both border posts. Do not forget to ensure you have R50 or 50 Elangeni cash to pay your Swazi road tax. They do accept cards but it takes longer to process.

Once in Swaziland we headed for the Malolotja Reserve Main Camp (26° 8'25.67"S.  31° 8'8.87"E). We had made prior arrangements with the Malalotja management for a transfer to the northern lookout point called Nkomati Lookout.

As usual, we were greeted in the typical friendly Swazi fashion y receptionist Nomsipho. We booked and paid for our two nights in the reserve. We met Musa, one of the Park senior Rangers, who was to drop us off and collect us at a designated point and time. I took some time to go through our intended route on the map with Musa, this turned out to be wise as he was kind enough to warn us of a few areas that were impassable at present and where the best campsites were.

We had an awesome half an hour drive to the drop off point, seeing herds of Eland, Zebra and Blesbok with this season’s youngsters in tow. The grasslands are green after some early rain, and the park is looking beautiful.

We arrived, jumped off and started our first day hike of approximately 6km. As mentioned above, Malalotja has very little or no flat areas, either hectic down or hectic up. We made our way down the valley from the Nkomati Lookout, past the rangers hut, old farmhouse ruin and over the Malalotja River. The path was well marked and not too difficult to follow. We arrived at Camp 11 in good time and decided to push onto Camp 12. This was a brilliant decision as Camp 12 was simply awesome! Next to the river, under trees and 50m from the most beautiful “pot holes”. Although bigger than I imagined, these natural swimming pools were mind blowing.

We had a swim, set up camp and enjoyed the evening chorus.  We had kept an eye on the weather and had come prepared. As darkness fell, lightning shattered the darkness, followed by thunder. We were well prepared and snug in our tents by the time the storm broke. No better way to fall asleep than to sound of a storm.

Saturday 8th December 2018

Up at first light as the cicadas and Red Chested Cuckoo made sure you do not miss sunrise. We had decided to head out along the Malalotja Valley, past Camp 13. We were looking for the Nkomati River junction. If we found this junction, we would head East along the Komati River to Camp 15 and 16.

All was going well until the path disappeared and we were surrounded by thick riverine forest. We paused, considered what Musa had said and opted to return to Camp 12 next to the river.

 

We returned to Camp 12 and set up camp. We spent the rest of the day swimming, bird watching and trying to identify the many different butterflies, damsels and Dragon Flies.

 

Sunday 9th December 2018

Having arranged with Musa for a 12H00 sharp pick-up, we had early start. We trekked back up and out the valley the same way we entered.

Were arrive 30 minutes early and relaxed while we recovered from the climb. Musa was early, and we caught our lift back to camp.

After lunch we headed back to Nelspruit, again both border posts were a pleasant experience. We were back in Nelspruit buy 17H00.

Conclusion

I must mention that all photo credits, most Bird and Butterfly Identifications must be credited to my hiking buddy Heinrich Human.

Again, we cannot stress enough that Malolotja was an awesome hiking experience. Great place, great people and great value for money. I would encourage all who can to experience the grandeur and beauty of the Malolotja Reserve to do so.

Should anyone need our tracks or any information pertaining to the Malolotja Reserve, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Some special birds by sighting and some identified by call:

  • Birds seen and identified

    • Cape Longclaw

    • Yellow-throated Longclaw

    • Fan-tailed Widowbird

    • Red-collared Widowbird

    • Long-tailed Widowbird

    • Yellow Bishop

    • Mountain Wagtail

    • Giant Kingfisher

    • Half-Collared Kingfisher

    • Lanner Falcon

    • Burchell’s Coucal

  • Birds identified by call

    • Black Cuckoo

    • Red-Chested Cuckoo

    • White Starred Robin

    • Red-Capped Robin Chat (highlight was this guy mimicking a Fiery Necked Nightjar)

    • Knysna Turaco

    • Eastern Nicator

    • Narina Trogan

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